Bongiraud - Obecanje Villes Vignes, Serbia (2018)
Think cru Beaujolais but with a touch more tannic presence and weight owing to the lower skin to pulp ratio of the grape. An exuberant bouquet of wild raspberries, bramble, funky earth and some a lot of structure for a Gamay.
Made from an old near-relative to Gamay clone called 'manchot à petits grains'. This version of Gamay arrived from France during the Phylloxera era, as French vignerons escaped to Serbia's sandy and chalky soils that were resisting the louse. The fruit of manchot à petits grains (à petits grains = of the small berries) yields about half the amount of juice as a regular Gamay.
From low yielding, 50-year-old vineyards with limestone soils...Cyrille Bongiraud in fact was the soil consultant for both Zind Humbrecht and Domaine de Romanée Conti before moving with partner Estelle (a vineyard owner and vigneron in Chorey les Beaunes) to Serbia.