Domaine Mosse - Rouchefer, Anjou, France (2019)
A stunner. Chenin Blanc from schist, gravel and quartz soils. The grapes are slow pressed then vinified in old oak barrels. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation occur. 20mg per liter of sulfur added at bottling. 50-year old vines from 1.6 ha vineyard in Anjou. The palate is quite ripe and expressive, but stays very elegant and fresh. First thought when it hits your nose – watermelon, pear, quince and the wine is just keep giving. It has lively acidity which backs up ripe and rich flavours.
Agnès and René Mosse, along with their sons Joseph and Sylvestre, live and work in the village of St-Lambert-du-Lattay, a village in the Coteaux-du-Layon area of Anjou. They adopted organic viticulture techniques from the start, plowing between and under the rows, and use biodynamic preparations to treat the vines and soil. In their area of "Anjou Noir" (Black Anjou, so called because of the dark color of the soils of slate and volcanic rocks), the soils are shallow, with subsoils of schist and sandstone, and varying amounts of clay on the surface.
With all the efforts put into vineyard work, it is equally important to them to vinify in a natural fashion, and they are particularly attentive to minimizing manipulations and the use of sulfur. All the wines are barrel-fermented and aged. The whites usually go through their malolactic fermentation. The barrels are renewed as needed, but are always older as to not impart oak flavours.