Lahaye - Millésime, Grand Cru, Champagne, France (2017)

TASTING NOTES

Wild strawberries and raspberries, white flowers and a touch of spice. On the palate, this Champagne is characterized by a vibrant freshness with flavours of red berries, citrus zest, and a hint of minerality. The wine exhibits a fine, persistent mousse with crisp acidity, and a dry, lingering finish. 

This Champagne is only made in vintages Lahaye considers to be his best. From single, brown chalk-soil plots in Bouzy--the Pinot Noir from the parcel Monts de Tauxières, planted in 1966, and the Chardonnay from the parcel Haut de Argentières, planted in 1960. Vinification is in fûts de chêne for 5 years without malolactic fermentation, racking or filtration. Dosage is 4 grams/liter (extra brut). 

Simply put, these are some of the most exciting wines in the Montagne de Reims. Often very difficult to find, with only a very small allocation for Ontario. Peter Liem, one of the foremost Champagne experts and enthusiasts, called Benoit Lahaye “one of the finest growers in the Montagne de Reims.” From his estate in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, Benoit crafts tiny amounts of exquisite Champagne built on texture and precision. Lahaye’s wines are ample, powerful, but also finely sculpted, with a backbone of chalky minerality, always a hallmark of the finest wines from Bouzy.

An ardent believer in biodynamic viticulture, Lahaye was cerfitied organic in 2007 and biodynamic since 2010. He believes that healthy soils are integral to the production of fine Champagne. To that end he began planting cover crops in the vineyards and works them by horse in order to avoid soil compaction. Since converting to biodynamics Lahaye has observed an increase in both grape ripeness and acidity, enabling him to create wines of breadth and power that nonetheless retain freshness and elegance. Lahaye ferments the majority of his wines in barrel and ages them on the lees for several months before bottling.

These are ample wines, showcasing the finest qualities of this grand cru terroir. While the vast majority of the wines are composed of Pinot Noir from Bouzy and a little from Ambonnay, Lahaye also has a small parcel of Chardonnay in Voipreux, near Vertus, which is the source of his stunning Blanc de Blancs. Moreover, he produces a single-vineyard Champagne called Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre, made from a field blend of old vines, mostly planted in 1923. Not only does it include all seven of Champagne’s heritage grape varietals, but also a number of other no longer permitted varietals, such as gros plant. It is one of the most distinctive wines in Champagne.